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A hundred miles south of Cairo, Bettany starts on a stretch of Nile that few visitors ever get to see. Once Egypt’s main highway, this was where Cleopatra herself used to travel and be seen by her people. Further upriver, Bettany tracks down Egypt’s lost emblem, the blue lotus flower, and visits the beautiful tombs where Tutankhamen’s discoverer Howard Carter first got hooked on Egypt.
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